


January 9, 2026 by
David Allen

Porcelain is often chosen for its durability and water resistance. Many London homeowners expect it to stay looking clean with simple routine care. When it starts to look dull, hazy, or permanently dirty, it can feel like you made the wrong choice.
Fila Pro Floor Cleaner | LTP Porcelain Floor Tile Cleaner | Vileda H2PrO Spin Mop System |
In most cases, that frustration comes down to where the problem sits. With porcelain, it’s usually on the surface, or in the grout, rather than inside the tile.
These are the signs that tend to trigger the “something’s wrong” feeling:
It’s common for the floor to look better while it’s wet, then disappointing once it dries. That often points to surface films, mineral deposits, or residue rather than “dirt that won’t come out”.
Porcelain is highly vitrified and highly resistant to absorption. That changes how soiling behaves. Instead of soaking into the tile body, contamination tends to sit on the tile surface or accumulate in the cementitious grout lines.
This is why some porcelain floors can look worse over time, even when you clean more often. The tile itself is resistant, but the grout is porous and easier to stain, and textured finishes can hold soil.
A specialist doesn’t start by reaching for “something more substantial. The sensible first step is working out which surface condition is actually there:
Once that’s adequately separated, the plan becomes much clearer: remove what’s on the surface, address grout appearance where needed, and use refinement steps only when the tile finish can genuinely benefit.
The “London Water” Factor: Why Local Floors Haze Faster
One of the most overlooked challenges for London homeowners is the specific nature of the city’s water supply. Because London water is sourced from chalk aquifers and is heavily processed and recycled before it reaches your tap, it carries an exceptionally high Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) count.
When you mop with standard tap water, the liquid evaporates, but the minerals and treatment residues do not. In a high-calcium environment like the Thames Valley, this creates a microscopic “mineral veil” over the porcelain. Over months of routine cleaning, these minerals bond with detergent residues to create a sticky, dulling film that standard mopping cannot shift. This is why a floor can look clean while wet, but instantly returns to a hazy, streaky finish as the London water dries.

When a porcelain floor looks patchy, it’s easy to assume it’s “worn out”. Often, it isn’t. Most of the time, the dullness comes from something bonded to the surface or lodged in the texture.
It’s also normal to worry that you’ve damaged the tiles by cleaning. That worry makes sense, especially if you’ve tried different products and nothing has helped. The professional approach is designed to remove contamination without resorting to harsh scrubbing that can cause avoidable damage.
Grout haze is one of the most common reasons porcelain looks dull. Fine residue left after grouting can dry as a thin veil over the surface. It’s not always obvious straight away, but it scatters light and robs the finish of its crispness.
This is a surface issue. It can make tiles look “permanently dirty” because routine washing doesn’t shift it. The correct route is a controlled, clean process aimed at removing mineral residue, then fully extracting it so it doesn’t settle back as the floor dries.
Another prevalent cause is residue build-up from everyday cleaning products. Many detergents leave a film behind. That film then grabs hold of the soil, making the floor look dull again and often leading to more product use. It becomes a cycle.
In this situation, the porcelain isn’t failing. The routine is creating a surface condition that mopping won’t undo. Restoration means breaking that film down, lifting it away, and removing the slurry rather than spreading it around.
Textured/riven porcelain behaves very differently from smoother finishes. Texture creates more surface area and more places for soil to lodge. In busy homes, dirt accumulates in the traffic lanes, giving the impression that the tiles are stained or permanently dark.
This is not usually absorbed into the porcelain. It’s mechanical trapping. That’s why mops and microfibre can disappoint: they clean the high points while the recessed parts hold on to dirt. A specialist approach focuses on controlled agitation that reaches into the texture, followed by slurry extraction to prevent the lifted soil from dropping back into the pattern.
Hard water can leave limescale and other mineral films on porcelain. These deposits can show as dull patches, streaks, or a hazy layer that seems to return quickly. They also change how the surface dries, making marks more visible.
Like haze and films, this is mainly a surface problem. Removing mineral deposits needs a different approach from removing grease or general soiling. That separation matters because it avoids unnecessary abrasion and gets to the point faster.

It helps to be clear about what “restoration” means with porcelain. The aim is usually to restore clarity and a more uniform look, not to rework the material itself. Porcelain doesn’t behave like stone, and the safest approach respects that.
Being direct about limits is part of doing the job correctly. You should be told what can be improved through cleaning and refinement, and what won’t change without repair work.
Deep chemical–mechanical cleaning is used when the issue is bonded contamination, such as haze, films, ingrained dirt in the exture, and heavy soiling in grout lines. The principle is straightforward:
When it’s done correctly, homeowners typically see a more transparent surface, less patchiness, and a more consistent look between tiles and grout. Textured floors often improve the most because soil is removed from within the surface profile rather than just shifted around.
Cleaning can’t repair physical damage. If a tile is chipped or cracked, that’s a repair issue, not a cleaning issue. The same applies to heavy scratches. A cleaner surface can make damage easier to see, but it won’t remove it.
With polished porcelain, the final “look” depends on the factory finish. Burnishing can improve clarity and reduce light scuffing, but if that micro-finish has been physically altered, matching original gloss isn’t always possible. This is why outcomes need to stay condition-dependent.
Bleach-damaged grout is common. Grout is porous and more chemically vulnerable than porcelain. Once grout has been lightened or washed out, cleaning won’t restore its colour.
That’s where grout recolouring becomes the practical route. It changes the appearance of the grout in a controlled way and can produce a more even result than repeated cleaning attempts. In some cases, replacement is the only answer, but recolouring is often the cleaner way to restore a consistent finish without disruptive grout removal.

Homeowners often want a quick, definite answer: “Is this grout haze?” or “Have I ruined the tiles?” A professional can’t guarantee that remotely, and they shouldn’t pretend they can.
What they can do is explain what they look for when they see the floor, and why those checks matter to the result.
The tile’s finish and texture determine how it soils and how it can be cleaned safely. Textured/riven porcelain can hold soil in its profile. Polished porcelain can lose clarity over time and become more prone to showing marks. Micro-porous porcelain behaves differently again, because it may accept specific protective treatments where fully vitrified porcelain will not.
A specialist also considers whether coatings or residues are present on the surface that are not part of the tile finish. That includes wrong sealer residue, where a product has dried as a film instead of providing protection.
Grout is often where the “dirty floor” feeling really comes from. Because cementitious grout is porous, it soaks up soil faster and stains more easily. It can also be damaged by aggressive cleaning methods, leading to patchiness or permanent colour change.
A specialist assesses whether the grout colour shifts in certain zones, whether the same routes re-soil quickly, and whether the grout surface appears to have been treated with harsh products. Those observations help determine whether deep cleaning is sufficient or whether grout recolouring is the more realistic solution.
Some repeatable patterns often suggest a professional clean is the sensible next step:
These aren’t “test”, and they aren’t a remote diagnosis. They’re practical indicators that the issue is likely bonded to the surface and needs controlled removal rather than more of the same routine.

When porcelain looks dirty, it’s natural to respond by cleaning harder or trying stronger products. The trouble is that porcelain floors tend to fail in predictable ways: not because the tile is weak, but because grout and surface conditions don’t respond well to the wrong approach.
A big part of restoration is preventing avoidable damage. It protects the finish you already have and prevents a removable surface issue from becoming a repair problem.
Steam, bleach and harsh detergents can create long-term issues without solving the root cause. Steam can push moisture and contamination into grout lines. Bleach can damage grout colour and leave it patchy. Strong detergents can contribute to residue buildup, leaving surface films that attract soil and quickly make the floor look dull again.
They also tend to encourage more scrubbing, which increases the risk of physical wear and can make later professional work more involved.
Most porcelain does not need sealing. Fully vitrified porcelain typically won’t accept sealers, so they can’t dry as a film on the surface. That film becomes a wrong sealer residue, which then needs specialist removal.
There are exceptions. Micro-porous porcelain and some textured finishes may require sealing on a case-by-case basis. The key point is that sealing isn’t automatically helpful. It’s a specific solution for a particular surface behaviour.
Heavy agitation with abrasive pads and tools can create physical damage, especially at tile edges and grout lines. Edge chipping is common when homeowners attempt aggressive removal methods, including DIY grout work.
Once edges are chipped, cleaning can’t reverse it. At that point, the realistic remedy becomes repair-led, potentially involving tile replacement if matching tiles exist.

The goal isn’t to force a finish. It’s to match the method to the tile finish and the type of contamination, then remove that contamination entirely.
This controlled approach also addresses a common fear: that professional work will scratch the tiles. When the process is designed around the behaviour of porcelain and grout, the aim is to lift soil and residue without relying on damaging abrasion.
The core professional process for porcelain is deep chemical–mechanical cleaning supported by slurry extraction. The logic is material-based:
Chemistry is chosen based on what needs to be removed. Organic soil and grease respond differently from mineral residues and haze. Keeping those routes separate helps the floor clean properly without unnecessary risk.
Burnishing is a refinement step for polished porcelain. It can improve clarity and uniformity where the surface has dulled over time and where light scuffing is present.
It isn’t the same as stone honing. It doesn’t rely on heavy material removal. The purpose is to refine the existing surface and improve how light reflects, while staying within the realistic limit that factory gloss can’t constantly be recreated if the micro-finish has been physically altered.
Because grout is often the weak link, grout work can make a big difference to the overall appearance. Deep cleaning can improve grout, but it can’t reverse bleach-damaged grout where the colour has been permanently altered.
Grout recolouring is often the most effective way to restore a consistent look without the disruption of complete grout removal. It resets the appearance and can be paired with appropriate protection depending on the grout’s condition and how the floor is used.
Porcelain restoration usually produces clear improvement, but it isn’t a blank cheque. The best result depends on finish type, existing residues, grout condition, and what’s been used on the floor in the past.
Clear limits protect you from paying for the wrong work. They also stop you from chasing “stronger cleaning” when the real issue is a repair or grout renovation.
Uniformity is affected by factors that aren’t always correctable. Differences in installation quality, tile batches, grout application, and historic cleaning habits can create variation across a floor.
Professional work can improve clarity and coherence, but it can’t guarantee that every tile and every grout line will match perfectly where underlying inconsistency exists.
If a tile is chipped, cracked, or physically damaged beyond cosmetic improvement, cleaning won’t fix it. The realistic route is tile replacement, which depends on having matching spares and being able to remove and re-fit without creating further damage.
This is also where caution matters in homes with underfloor heating: removal must be controlled and careful. A specialist should treat replacement as a separate repair decision, not something bundled into “cleaning.
No remote guarantee is possible. The final result depends on the tile finish, the type and thickness of the residues, whether a wrong sealer residue is present, the condition of the cementitious grout, and the amount of contamination trapped.
A specialist can explain likely routes and realistic limits, but confirmation requires an on-site view of the surface and grout behaviour under professional cleaning conditions.
Once the surface has been adequately cleaned and extracted, routine care becomes simpler. The key is avoiding the same film conditions that made the floor look dull in the first place.
Most long-term disappointments come from the return of surface films, not from the porcelain failing. Maintenance is about keeping the surface clean without leaving anything behind.
A neutral cleaner supports routine cleaning without attacking grout or leaving aggressive residues. It also reduces the risk of gradual grout damage that later manifests as patchiness and uneven colour.
The aim is consistency and restraint: remove daily soil, rinse away what’s been lifted, and avoid cleaners that leave a film behind.
Simple habits reduce the chance of build-up returning:
When you reduce surface films, the floor stays clearer and textured areas are less likely to darken quickly in the traffic lanes.
If haze returns quickly, if textured tiles continue to hold soil after routine care, or if polished areas keep dulling, it’s sensible to seek a case-by-case assessment. That’s especially true where grout is patchy, bleached, or repeatedly re-soils.
Early assessment is often simpler than repeated attempts at stronger DIY cleaning, because it reduces the risk of turning a removable surface condition into edge chipping, grout damage, or wrong sealer residue.
If any of this sounds familiar, we can assess the floor first and explain what’s realistic — before you decide on any work.
Porcelain tiles themselves rarely wear out in domestic settings. When a floor looks dull, hazy, or patchy, the cause is usually surface-bound residue, such as detergent build-up, grout haze, mineral deposits from London water, or dirt trapped in textured finishes. In most cases, the tile body remains intact.
This is a common sign of surface films or mineral residue. As the water evaporates, dissolved minerals and cleaning residues are left behind, creating a microscopic veil that scatters light. In London homes, the high mineral content of tap water often makes this effect more noticeable.
Most fully vitrified porcelain tiles do not need sealing and will not absorb sealers correctly. Applying a sealer where it is not required can leave a surface film that makes the floor look worse. Some micro-porous or heavily textured porcelain may benefit from targeted treatment, but this should only be decided following an on-site assessment.